Anyone who’s been to the North-Eastern parts of India might have noticed one strange phenomenon, that the sun sets early and in a lot of places, as early as 4.30 pm. So while we were lazily finishing a leisurely meal at Café Shillong, still invigorated by previous night’s Steve Vai gig, we realised it was 3.30 and if we didn’t get out and do something immediately, the day might well and truly be over.
We hailed a taxi and went straight to the prettiest place around Shillong, the Umiam lake. This mass of hydropower water, about 20 kms from the city, is an unmistakable sight when you’re transiting from Shillong to Guwahati but it’s worth going there for its own sake. Since we were a bit late, we could only hit a couple of viewpoints. The first, on the way to the lake shore, is from an elevated platform that gives you a panoramic view of the entire landscape.
By far, the better view of the lake is from the viewing platform near the Orchid Lake Resort. The place charges a nominal fee to non-guests and what you get for the little money you spend is a marvelous, unobstructed view of the shimmering waters and the tree-laden hills around. There’s a water-sports corner where the more active tourists can take a ride in the still waters. In a way, we were fortunate to have started so late because we were just in time to see the sun down and for the orange-yellow sunset colours to deepen and dissipate in the clouds radiating over the hills.
A few days later, we were making our way back from Mawsynram to Shillong and on the way, we did a detour off the highway to Shillong Peak. The turn-off to the peak begins about 10 kms before Shillong on the Cherrapunjee/Mawsynram road and if you have some time to spare, it might be worth the foray because at close to 2000 meters above sea-level, it is the highest point in all of Meghalaya.
The peak also houses an Indian Air Force Base and security is predictably tight. We had to furnish our IDs and one of us had to leave it at the gate in exchange for an entry permit before going inside. You aren’t allowed to get off or take any pictures on the way to the peak. But once you’re there, you can put your tourist hat on and whip out your camera because the tourist circus is well and truly in show.
There are two observation towers and one of them is equipped with a telescope if you want to take a closer look at the city. Shops selling trinkets, clothes and snacks are clustered together for the benefit of those who might want to do some shopping. There are booths where you can put on Khasi costumes for 50 Rs. and get your pictures taken.
We chose to go to the tower without the telescope because there was nobody there. The bird’s eye view of the city from here through the tall pines was both magnificent and somewhat distressing. You could see the extent of ugly urban agglomeration eating into the forested hills around. Nevertheless, like all sweeping landscapes, it was a pretty impressive peek at the city.