Gluttony in Shillong

By far, the best gastronomic experience I had in Meghalaya was at Sankrita’s house in Mawsynram. It was local, authentic, delicious, generous and homely. But you don’t have to compare everything to the best. So here’s a few cafes and restaurants in Shillong that I tried over multiple trips –

Trattoria – Don’t go by the misleading high-brow Italian name. If all you want to do when you’re in Shillong is to have some authentic Khasi food in a no frills, inexpensive environment, then stop right here. This little place near the Police Bazaar circle is tiny and often full and unlike proper restaurants, has slim communal benches arranged in rows in lieu of tables. It is also run like a canteen so you might have to wait your turn before they take your order and serve you. But for people who don’t mind the barebones ambience, it’s excellent. For newbies to Khasi cuisine like myself, they have helpful pork/mutton/fish platters that have a little bit of every preparation served with Jadoh rice. Can’t recommend this place highly enough.

The pork platter with Jadoh rice at Trattoria

Café Shillong – This trendy first floor café in Laitumkhrah may be done up as a cool hang-out spot where food is secondary but it’s quite fantastic for grabbing some meaty Khasi dishes. Their steaks are decent but their succulent pork ribs are to die for. I also tried the smoked pork bastenga which was a bit too pungent and salty for my taste. The coffee wasn’t as good as the last time I was here but they have a double shot cappuccino option which is significantly better than the ordinary one. It has live music on Sunday evenings for those who like to go for that sort of thing and generally has a pleasant, cheerful vibe.

Delhi Misthan Bhandar – Hot and sweaty aren’t two words you would ever use to describe anything in a town like Shillong but that’s exactly what Delhi Misthan Bhandar is. It’s always packed to the gills with people and as if the challenge of serving so many customers with a handful of waiters isn’t enough, they complicate things even further by having a strange booking system. So you go to the counter, pay for your chola bhatura, take your slip and go upstairs. Here, you wait for a waiter to show up in a crowded, unventilated sitting area and transfer your order slip to the kitchen. You see them flitting all over the place but no one ever stops by to take your order. You’re getting angry and so are some of the people around you and after half an hour of feeling like you’ve been baked in an oven, you shout at one of them asking when he’s going to get the order. He stares at you sternly and waves an open palm gesture and runs away. Then you go to the manager who asks you to go back to your seat and wait like the other people are doing. Soon you realise that people who came after you have been getting their orders. You are not the sort to kick up a fuss but you try to. The manager looks at your order and says quizzically, “Oh, sirf ek chola bhatura?” (Just one chola bhatura?) and makes a waiter go get it pronto.

The chola bhatura is pretty good and probably the best you’re going to get in all of Shillong.

Smoky Falls Tribe Coffee – This little café with two tiny tables in Police Bazar does the best coffee in Shillong by a fair margin. The coffee is sourced from local growers from different parts of Meghalaya and roasted and packaged by the family that runs the business. It promises to be pure coffee without any added chicory. The place was only open once during the time I was here but I highly recommend picking up a few packets because it’s homegrown, local and run less like a business and more like a passion.

The Smoky Falls Tribe Coffee place

Swish Café – Another place that does great coffee is this hip little cafe in the Laitumkhrah Beat House. This is known to be among the oldest cafes to open in Shillong and is a charming and friendly place to have a cuppa. I had a whiskey flavoured coffee on the suggestion of the woman taking my order and it was splendid with just the right amount of tang and texture. The food is pretty good too with some filling breakfasts, pork ribs, burgers and pancakes on offer.

Dylan Café – This is a pretty cool place to hang out if that’s all you want to do. There’s a nicely done-up interior area and an open terrace to lounge about. Predictably, Dylan pictures, lyrics and quotes form a significant part of the decoration. The food is college canteen standard and I found the burger and the noodles pretty ordinary. The coffee here was the worst coffee I had in all of Shillong. But still, a good place to chill with friends if your expectations from food aren’t too high.

City Hut Dhaba – Possibly the best place to have North Indian food in Shillong. It’s a tourist favourite and you might have to wait for a table during weekends. The ambience is geared squarely towards big groups and families, so brave solo travellers who venture here might feel slightly out of place (like I did). But the tandoori food here is good and the waiters are friendly and helpful.

Cloud 9 Rooftop Lounge – On the top floor of the most prominent hotel in Police Bazaar, this is a fine place to go for an expensive drink when you’re in the mood. The whiskey sour I had here was as mean as it should be. The Pan-Asian menu leans overtly towards Thai cuisine and is pretty decent for what it is. If you don’t compare the food here to what you get in Chiang Mai or Bangkok, you’ll be fine. The main reason to come here is to unwind after a long day of seeing the sights and it does the job perfectly well.

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